What are the major causes of the following signs of ageing:
Thinning skin
Initially, thinning skin is due to the loss of collagen. This is caused mainly by reduced collagen synthesis, the disorganisation of the collagen bundles (fibrils) and increased collagen breakdown, which is influenced by breakdown of various enzymes in the skin. Later on, we have the loss of fat occurring which results in sagging (see below).
Dull skin
Dull skin has many causes. Major culprits are the accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, poor or incorrect skincare, poor circulation (resulting in poor delivery of nutrients and oxygen to skin), smoking, exposure to pollution, and, in the long term, sun exposure.
Drier skin
It is important to make a distinction between drier skin (caused by a lack of lipids in the skin) and dehydration (caused by a lack of water in the skin). In most cases, true dryness is part of an individual's skin type. Dehydration can affect anyone, at any age, and is usually a skin condition (caused by environmental factors – sun exposure, pollution, and lifestyle factors –smoking, excessive drinking etc).
Fine lines and wrinkles
Findings confirm that as much as 80% of skin ageing is down to environmental factors, like sun exposure, pollution etc. Essentially, we are dealing with the by-products of a breakdown of collagen in the skin, and compromised skin immunity. Expression lines and wrinkles (along the forehead, nasal-labial folds, around the eyes) also the result of repeated ‘wear-and-tear’, from simply living!
Sagging
In addition to the breakdown of collagen synthesis, sagging is also a consequence of the shrinking of subcutaneous fat layer in the skin. However, another, lesser-known contributor to sagging skin is the compromised cohesion of the epidermis and dermis (known as demo-epidermal junction).
Brown spots
These are most commonly brought on by excessive sun exposure. (Lentigos, aka –age or ‘liver’ spots) are exclusively brought on by exposure to the sun. Additional causes can be brought on by hormonal changes and affects up to half of women during pregnancy.
What can be done to prevent and/or treat the following signs of ageing, in terms of both lifestyle and skincare regimes:
Thinning skin
Proper cleansing (morning and evening), sun protection and moisturisation are the absolute basics to prevent this. Avoid smoking, and don’t be (too) excessive with alcohol. Never, ever, go to bed without removing make-up.
Sagging skin
Depending on the severity of the problem, or your concern, you can look out for products that can stimulate collagen (retinol, certain AHA preparations, peptides). Products that contain basic anti-oxidants (like vitamins C and E, Co-enzyme Q10, Glutathione) have almost become an industry staple, so look out for these.
Dull skin
Exfoliation is key. Use a cleansing scrub 2-3 times a week. Some people feel this may be excessive, but regular exfoliation help subsequent treatments to work better. Exfoliation smoothes the skin’s surface, so light is reflected off skin in a more uniform manner. It also improves application of make-up. You can also look out for products that have a 10% concentration of Vitamin C, a great radiance booster and anti-oxidant.
Drier skin
Drier skin needs products that are rich in lipids, and emollient in order to protect skin from environmental assaults (winter and summer). Look out for products that can help soothe skin, such as Chamomile and Aloe. Exfoliate regularly using a creamy based scrub, and if dryness is excessive you may opt for using a cream cleanser. It is even more important to adjust skincare according to seasons and time of year.
Fine lines and wrinkles
As in thinning and sagging skin, but exfoliation is vital!
Brown spots
You have heard/read/been told before… to avoid sun beds, and sun exposure! If pigmentation or uneven skin tone is a problem or a concern, look for products containing Alpha Hydroxy acids, Retinol, or Azelaic acid and Arbutin. If you tend to be sensitive, then look for products containing Mulberry, Liquorice, Bearberry or Emblica extract.
Are there any ingredients that are particularly efficient in treating the above signs of ageing?
- please see above -
Are there any other signs of skin ageing to look out for and try and prevent/treat?
Do not forget the skin on the décolleté. This is often directly exposed to environmental factors.
When and how should I start tackling ageing and what sorts of products and practices should I incorporate?
Start early with cleansing and moisturising skin. In your 20s, focus primarily on basic hydration, exfoliation and a boosting mask. Begin using to more sophisticated products in your late 20s. But the ‘rules’ remain the same: Cleanse twice a day, exfoliate regularly and use SPF.
What have been the biggest breakthroughs in anti-ageing skincare in recent years?
Recent years have actually shown a slow-down in anti-ageing technologies. There has not been a single discovery that stands out from the rest. We think the greatest breakthrough is combining different actives in one formula, so there have been fantastic re-formulations and improvements of existing products. For example, Peptide technology has moved onto technology that mimics the effects of Botox®.